Tools & SuppliesBullseye GlassMicaKiln Rental

Mica Samples

Mermaid's Gold Mica $1.50/5g

Gleaming Gold Mica $1.50/5g

Verdigris Gold Mica $1.50/5g

Pewter Mica $1.50/5g

Bordeaux Mica $1.50/5g

Raspberry Mica $1.50/5g

Green Mica $1.50/5g

Blue Mica $1.50/5g

Amethyst Mica $1.50/5g

Blue Violet Mica $1.50/5g

Red Violet Mica $1.50/5g

Mica Flakes $1.50/5g

Mica

We've chosen to offer the following colored micas because we've had good, consistent results in fusing them to glass. After testing hundreds, we found the majority of colored micas lost color or left unpleasant residue instead of color. We use dry mica, sifted directly onto sheet glass, or mix it with powdered glass in varying ratios and sift directly onto sheet glass.

Mica offers different results on different colored backgrounds. Choosing to clear cap is another option as the color can drastically change when clear capped.

We suggest you make a small test when you receive your colored micas to see how they react with your glass, firing conditions and other variables at your studio.

Mica will fuse to glass it's actually touching, but not to itself, so after fusing, you'll brush off the excess mica that wasn't clear capped.

Please note the following mica color shifts we've observed:

• Amethyst fused directly onto glass remains amethyst; fades to light pink when clear capped.
• Blue fused directly onto glass remains blue atop; strikes to a pale strawberry when clear capped.
• Blue Violet fused directly onto glass remains blue violet; strikes to a very pale flesh tone pink when clear capped.
• Bordeaux fused directly onto glass stays bordeaux; is slightly brighter when clear capped.
• Gleaming Gold fused directly onto glass gleams, but is brighter when clear capped.
• Green fused directly onto glass is dark green and a lighter green when clear capped.
• Mermaid Gold fused directly onto glass strikes to green; remains gold when clear capped.
• Raspberry fused directly onto glass remains raspberry but almost all color burns out to a beige when clear capped.
• Red Violet fused directly onto glass is a pinkish lavender and is a bit darker when clear capped.
• Pewter fused directly onto glass is a pewter silver but almost all color burns out to a pale petal pink when clear capped.
• Verdigris Gold fused directly onto glass remains as is, and when clear capped is brighter.
• Mica Flakes should be clear capped, as they easily flake off and leave a rough texture when fused directly onto glass.

Variations of color can be achieved by mixing mica with a variety of glass powder (frit size 08) colors, including clear. Try mixing in ratios of 2 glass powder to 1 mica, then 4 glass powder to 1 mica, then 6 glass powder to 1 mica, etc. Many interesting effects are possible.

Linda recommends making a set of test tiles:

Step 1: Cut test tiles

Cut a 2" base glass tile from white, black, clear and any color you plan to use the mica on. I test on black and white to see effects on a dark and a light substrate. Clear is used because you can place it over all colors as an audition to see how the mica will look on any given color.

Cut matching 1" x 2" tiles for each, plus a 1.125" x 2" clear tile for clear capping each. For each test tile, place the matching 1" x 2" tile atop the 2" base; glue if necessary.

Step 2: Sift mica

Sift a line of mica over the two layers and onto the remaining single layer of each. Stop the sift just before the outer edge on the single layer. Using a wipe out tool, (also called a color or clay shaper), wipe any stray mica away from the edges.

If you have more than one color of mica, sift a line of each color onto the same base tiles, incorporating as much information as possible on each 2" tile.

Step 3: Clear cap

Clear cap the single half layer of all your test pieces with your 1.125" x 2" clear piece, making sure the top clear glass covers all the mica. If you cut the clear cap slightly larger than the base glass, it will bend over the edge of the base and you won't have to be as precise in keeping the mica away from the edges. If the mica seeps out the edges when clear capping, it will repel and you'll have a "bubbled" edge.

Step 4: Fuse

Use a full fuse firing schedule for your kiln, venting to 1000 degrees, and annealing for thickness of glass. If you follow my examples of 2" tiles, they are small enough that you should be able to ramp up as quickly as your kiln allows.

Step 5: Note

Make notations of your results to keep as a permanent record of your findings.